Sunday 22 July 2012

Khechari Mudra from Hatha-yoga Pradipika

The principle of Khechari was adopted by the Yogis from snakes going in hibernation for long periods of time. They improved upon it and came up with Khechari mudra. Such is my personal belief. Khechari means Kha=sky, Charam=to travel. It doesn't imply that the yogi will rise up from his seat and begin to fly with this Mudra. It means that the Tongue reaches up towards the sky. Yogiraj Gorakhnath has described about an inverted well and a Cave of Buzzing black bees. I think he was talking about the tongue rising up through the secret passage towards the third eye; finally the yogi's consciousness reaches a center where the Para Naad OM is constantly reverberating on its own; that's the Bhramar Guha (Cave of black bees).

A detailed description of the process of Khechari Mudra is given in Hatha Yoga Pradipika chapter 3. This magnificent book was written by Swami Svatmarama, under the direction of his Guru, Yogiraj Gorakhnath. Svatmarama mentions his lineage as, Adinath Shiva to Matsyendra Nath to Goraksha Nath to himself.

Hathayoga Pradipika, 3rd Chapter:

Verse 32: Kechari Mudra is done by inserting the tongue into the hole in the soft palate at the roof of the mouth, by turning it backward.

33. In order to be successful, the tongue must lengthened into a Lambika (such as the long tongue of Goddess Kali). Sometimes cutting the frenulum (the mucus membrane that holds back the underside of the tongue to the floor of the mouth) is necessary. Else, pull or move your tongue around constantly. When it gets long enough, to reach the point between the eyebrows, then Kechari becomes possible.

36. The frenulum is cut 1/2 millimeter each day and the wound is sealed. In 6 months, the tongue becomes free & quite long. (Note: Dont eat food or drink that are too hot like chilli or too sour. This will make the tongue thicker and interfere with Khechari.)

38. A Yogi adept in Khechari, who turns his tongue upward in his seat (usually Siddhasana), is impervious to poisons, disease, ageing and death.

39. He overcomes disease, death, sleep, laziness, hunger, thirst, and fainting.

43. NECTAR: If a Yogi can drink the Juice of Soma (Moon) by meditating in Khechari mudra, surely he subdues Death within 15 days!

44. The Khechari expert cannot be killed even if bitten by the most poisonous snake; because his body is imbued with nectar.

45. Death cannot enter a body which is full of Nectar secreted from Soma (The triangular Moon mandala inside Sahasrara, the 1000 petalled Lotus)

48. The Juice of Immortality is secreted by the moon.

49. Taste the nectar with the tip of the tongue. The Ambrosia may be salty, bitter, sour, milky, or, like ghee(clarified butter) or, honey. Be free from disease, old age, be thou immortal and pull astral beings by the magnetic force.

50. The nectar falls from the Moon in the brain to the 8 petalled lotus near the heart. He who catches it by balancing Prana and doing Khechari and meditates on the source of all Power (Kundalini or Mahashakti or Almighty or whatever you call it!) becomes free from all physical ailments and lives a very long life.

Note: If you try it unguided (without the help of an experienced yogi) and block the internal nares and stop the oxygen flow, you may be unconscious or even suffer terminal damage. Please be patient, this is not a magic pill, it may take years to accomplish. A surgeon might assist you in getting the frenulum of tongue cut. But even then you must practice everyday by turning the tongue back, pushing the top palate, etc. 

I didn't cut my frenulum gradually for six months! Rather, I got it cut in one day, by a surgeon. The post operative exercise made it possible to grow longer. I had pain from the wound, that lasted 3 weeks.

Here the Juice from the forehead that the yogi drinks is referred to as Soma Rasa, which literally means, Lunar Juice. The source of this nectar is the triangular seat of the Moon in the forehead Chakra. Also note that the Rishis of yore used to offer Soma Rasa to the gods in their yajnas (fire-rituals), as mentioned in the Vedas. What was an external ritual for the Vedic sages, has been turned into an internal reality by yogis like Gorakhnath.

Yogi Gorakhnath said that yoga without knowledge and knowledge without yoga are both useless... like a bird with a single wing. It cannot fly like that. So, you must combine spiritual wisdom, meditation on one higher power with your physical yoga in order to make it a success. Otherwise, you will only gain a blackout state like a long deep sleep out of Khechari. Yoga, after all, is not just a gymnastic exercise, its practical spirituality.
Good luck.

~ written by:
Amitabha Chatterjee 

You can also see this article in my other site here.

Saturday 14 July 2012

The Mysterious Sadhu

Sri-
======== Ramswaroop Brahmachari ========
of Malgalbasa, Gangotri

On 26/6/2012, I reached Haridwar a little before dawn. I took a few dips in the Holy Ganga river near Har-ki-Pauri ghat, it was very cold but refreshing. It took away my fatigue from the train journey.
Haridwar Har-ki-Pauri Ghat, July 2012

Next I boarded on a bus going to Gangotri. This bus stopped on two places (Guptakashi & Chamba) for refreshments and answering natural calls. Thats where I met Mr. Santosh, a guide  for high altitude trekking. He joined us on the bus from Guptakashi
.
Santosh told me about his expeditions, experiences and the rescue missions he has taken part in. I asked him, how much it would cost, for a group of 7 people, to go on a high altitude trekking journey, from Gangotri to Badrinath. He said they must also include 3-4 porters, to carry the luggage & supplies, tents, food, etc.; himself, as the guide, and a Cook who will go ahead on the camping spots, cook dishes and serve hot food when the party reaches there. Each of them have their own wage rates, like, Guide = 1000-1200/day, Porter 500/day, Cook 500-700/day (they can cook anything you can think of, even rasgullas!). One must rent the tents and pay for the food of ---> the tourists + the crew (porter, cook, guide). 
Ganga, downward journey

A journey like this will last 12-14 days upto Badrinath, via Mana, through the icy regions of the Himalayas. They will pass through hail & snowfall, avalanche, ravines and rocks, forests and icy lakes. This kind of a trek will cost Rs. 1 lakh (100,000/=). Whew! I said, Okay, I will contact you, when I have that kind of money to spend, and such a group of brave young men. Actually, the cost is not high, if you consider the conditions of the terrain, the risks involved and the number of people in it. Santosh gave me his contact number. It's 07895863756.

I asked him if he knew any mahatma, or, genuine Sadhu-Baba in the region spanning from Gangotri to Tapovan. after thinking deeply, he replied that nowadays, it is very hard to come across highly realized sadhus (uccha koti ke mahatma); but in his opinion, the mahatma at mangalbasa is quite good. he remains immersed in his sadhana and is not interested in matters of the outer world, or, publicity. This baba is without greed. I thanked Santosh for his pointers on local sadhus and our discussions turned to other subjects.


As soon we reached Gangotri at 7:30 pm, in the evening, I remembered the advice from Santosh and hurried to the Permit Office near the bus stand. Only a small part of the office was still open and I was the last customer. They asked for my identity card (PAN, Voter ID, Passport), which I was luckily carrying. They made me fill up a form and issued a white paper with my details on it.

The next morning, I started my journey at 6:30 am. I purchased a strong stick (5.5 ft) for 40 rupees. This stick was my trusty companion, all over the mountainous terrain. It didn't have the iron cone fitted under it. This iron usually falls off after some time. I found numerous flattened iron pieces all over the path, up-to Gaumukh.

Also, I never carelessly dropped plastic carry-bags/ biscuit wraps on the Gangotri national park. I carried them with me and disposed of them in waste-bins, placed on the roadside. But sadly I witnessed many stupid people polluting the Ganges with plastic wastes. Much awareness is necessary for these people to wake up!

As I passed the check-post near Phalahari Baba's Ashram, the guards stopped me. I had to produce the white permit and pay a sum of 150/= rupees (600 for foreigners). The officer kept the white paper and issued a red counterpart for me. They also provided me with drinking water. On 2003, when I visited Gaumukh, it was for free; I didn't require any permit. I guess they need the money to maintain the afforestation programs, keep the place clean, constantly repair the road for the pilgrims in spite of the frequent landslides.

  A few miles after the check-post leads to Mangalbasa, a which used to be a Choti, or, Parhao, or, resting place for tired pilgrims in the olden days. Now, it's abandoned as a Choti, nobody stops there. Luckily enough, I found a few local people sitting there. I asked them, whether there is a Mahatma / Baba living around here. They gave me directions to get off the road and descend along the forested slope towards the Ganges river flowing a few hundred feet below.

I followed their instructions and soon came upon a cave/ dwelling made from boulders and huge rocks. A blanket served as a door at the entrance. I called out several times to draw the attention of the mahatma inside, like, "Vam Bhole, Jai Shiv Shankar, Hari Om, Jai Guru!" But nobody answered back. After trying many times, I went back up towards the road to Bhojbasa. I met the mountain people and told them what I saw. I didn't want to enter the cave without the Baba's permission, for that would be a rude intrusion.

While I was away, a sadhu has joined the group. He had a red shirt on; carried a stick and a steel water-pot. His head was shaved. He volunteered to take me to the Baba below, as he was impressed by 'my eagerness to meet the Mahatma'. I came to learn from him, that the name of the sadhu in question is, Ramswarup Baba. He was staying in Mangalbasa for 2 years now. On the way, this guide-baba picked some herbs and allowed me to smell them. He said, "These medicinal herbs make good tea and keep the body warm in this cold climate." Later on, while in Gaumukh, I managed to remain alive and fight against cold and hunger by ingesting these herbs along with Ganges water.

Anyway, this guide-sadhu entered the cave and told me to come in. I noticed that there was an inner chamber with door. He pushed the door open and told the Baba, that "A nice guy has come to see you." And then I was invited inside. Once inside, I could hear no outside noise any longer. It was sort of sound-proof! Also, it was quite dark in there. Ramswarup-ji was wearing grey wooly-cotton sweat-shirt and pajamas. His hair was very short and it seemed like he shaved every few days. Its the same about his beard.

Inside the cave


The Sadhu-Baba didn't waste any time in meaningless small-talk. He started talking about in-depth spirituality right away. He was not offended when I contradicted with him over several opinions. He is very soft spoken and kind. He wanted to offer me milk-tea, which I politely denied and finally settled for some black herbal tea and biscuits. This was first offered to the image of Lord Vishnu & Laxmi and then served. I took a picture with his permission.

When I showed him the image of my Guru, he respectfully called my master a "Mahapurush", (a very advanced soul) and touched it with his head in prostration. All his behavior exuded some mark of spiritual ascent and lack of vanity. I have seen many sadhus in my life. Usually they don't touch strangers. This Baba offered me a seat on his own Asan (Prayer mat), which I denied, of course, and took my rightful pace on the floor (on a blanket).

I was quite impressed by this quiet and calm Sadhu. I offered him some money, but he politely refused to accept it again and again. Ultimately I left it in front of him and tried my best to persuade him. "You can feed devotees and guests with the money, for food is so scarce in this place!"

While departing, I expressed my desire to visit him on my return journey. He told me that he will be in Gaumukh on the lunar day of Ekadasi. He came out with me up-to the entrance of his cave dwelling. I requested to take his photo on my mobile in the clear daylight.
In front of his cave dwelling

On the day of my return from Bhojbasa to Gangotri, as I arrived at Mangalbasa, I recalled my promise to Ramswarup Brahmachari Baba. I went down along the mountain side. I clearly remembered the path and found all the landmarks. But then, as I came over the place where the cave used to be, I found only a patch of forest! The Baba and his cave have disappeared! I came up to the road, looked around and tried again to no avail.

Thursday 12 July 2012

Ganga Gangotri Gaumukh Trip

I just came back from Gangotri Gomukh (also called as Gaumukh, Cow's Head) about 10 days ago. The last time I went there was 10 years ago, in 2003. Many things have changed in this interval. In fact the climate of the whole world has changed. Pollution has increased and so has heat. It was very hot in Haridwar, 33°C = 91.4 °F in Uttarkashi, even Gangotri felt warmer than before. Gangotri is supposed to be ice-clad most of the time!
Dawn at Gangotri, June 2012
In 2003 April-May, when I went to Gaumukh, the view was spectacular. I went very close to the Glacier, within 50 feet. Numerous 10-15 feet wide pillars of solid ice hung 80-120 feet from the Glacier. And from the gaps and holes(between the pillars), river Ganga was dripping out. I felt it to be one of the holiest places on earth. I could relate to those giant pillars in Gomukh as the matted locks "Jata-Kalapa" of Devon ke Deva (God of gods), Mahadeva, Shiva, (source of all bliss and knowledge in my life)... and river Ganga flowing out of them! The whole surface of river Ganga was frozen solid, from bank to bank. A 4 inch thick sheet of very strong ice was there. Below it, the holiest river, the nectar-like Ganga was flowing in it's most pristine state!

 Now in 2012, the glacier has receded, melted away about 500 feet to the back. The size is much smaller (1/3 of 2003). Also, Gaumukh used to be milk white, made of pure rock solid ice. Now, in July 2012, its covered in a dark brown dust, which under the harsh sun is melting away very fast.
Gaumukh in 2012, outlined in blue


The melting ice has caused the increase in the overall span of river Ganga. It much wider right at Gaumukh, so I had to cross hillock after hillock of huge boulders, to go near the actual Glacier. In 2003, there was a clear way along the bank of the river. Now the huge river has swallowed the path. If global warming bring about this kind of change is such a short time, many things will be soon disrupted all over the globe. Also, the last time there was a 2 inches thick sheet of ice all over Ganges, from bank to bank, next to Gaumukh; and Ganga was flowing below that ice layer. Now its naked muddy water.

Neeldhara overflowing at Haridwar
The fast flowing water is so much in quantity that even in Haridwar, Ganga has widened amazingly. In 2004, I crossed the Har-Ki-Pauri bridge and just walked towards Chandi Pahar (mountain). On the foot of it, was a slim part of the original Ganga, called Neeldhara. Original in the sense, that, it existed before the British constructed Har-ki-Pauri ghat around 140 years ago.
Neeldhara, Haridwar Ganga

Back to the point, I could walk on foot up-to Neeldhara in 2004. Now the Ganga has totally drowned the land in between, and I had to cross a far away bridge to arrive at the other bank of Neeldhara. The global warming phenomenon is no longer a popular talk show, its real.
Monolithic mountains near the canteen spot midway

One thing a traveler should do as soon as he gets to Gangotri is to get a Permit. The permit office is up-hill near the bus-depot. You need an ID for that and it will cost you 150 rupees (for Indian citizens) Or, 600 rupees ( for foreigners). The place where they will stop you and ask for the permit is just opposite to Phalahari Baba's Ashram.
My permit counterpart

Better get a permit beforehand, than being sorry afterwards!


Ten years ago, the number of bhoj trees, also known as Himalayan birch, Bhurja-Patra, or, Betula utilis were not so plentiful along the route, as I found it to be now. The Forest Department and other activists have tried to save this rare  plant from extinction under an afforestation program.
Landslides have killed some Bhoj-trees

 But due to frequent landslides, many Bhoj-trees have died, especially just next to Bhojbasa, and in certain mountain slopes. Sadly, last time heaps of Tej-patra ( Cinnamomum tamala )used to lie on the path from Chirbasa onwards; but now, there is no trace of them. What happened to those fragrant plants?
baby pine cones

As I was trekking, I noticed many exquisite herbs, growing on either side of the trail. They are mostly medicinal herbs with a strong aroma. Sadhus add them to their tea to combat the cold and fatigue.Ganga-tulsi, Daman-patra, etc. grow in abundance over there.
Medicinal Herbs in Bhojbasa

The play of delightful colors you get to see in the wild roses and other unknown flowers, is enough to beguile any romantic traveler's mind. Red, pink, purple, blue, yellow, white, dark-violet, flowers come in a wide variety of colors.

One good thing is that the people of Gangotri are still very honest and simple. Even now, I kept my bag in their care and went away to trek. After some days, when I took it back, everything was intact. These kind simple people are so hard to find in the plains.

   In Gangotri to Bhojbasa route, many small tents and Chotis that used to serve food has now disappeared. There is now only one food stall where you cross the river stream. Finally, when you get to Bhojbasa and may have some refreshments. Now, Lodgings: apart from Lalbaba's Ashram, you have another Yogashram, one Tourist Lodge; and a nice Sadhu named Nirmalbaba, who provides food & shelter in his tiny cottage/Tent free of cost and also sings Bhajans (laughs).
Dawn at Bhojbasa
    Sadhu Nirmalbaba was very kind and nice to me. He leaves his ashram in the morning around 6am, and does Tapasya in Gaumukh until he returns at Bhojbasa at 6pm in the evening. His behavior is also very friendly. He gave me short cut directions to climb near the Gomukh glacier.
Sadhu Nirmal Baba

In 2003, as I was meditating near the springs, a little distance from the Trekking path, groups of grey colored deers were grazing. They were so fearless, that they came within seven feet from me. Now, in 2012, I found no trace of those deers; not even the large white goats with long horns this time. Among wild animals, I just saw big mountain rats, some rare song-birds and many huge lizards. And that rounds up my wild-life experience for 2012, in Gangotri National Park!! Huff!

Mud hills en-route Bhojbasa
This time I noticed that many landslides have occurred. I photographed some huge Mud-Hills, packed with rocks & boulders, just above the path, ready to slide after a heavy rain.




I just found two great sadhus, (1) Sri Ram Swarup Brahmachari (Mangalbasa) and (2) Sri Nirmal Baba (Bhojbasa). That's a nice consolation.
Me as a Pilgrim


I took my own photograph with a manual film camera, without any auto-shutter release. I used Kodak film and an old Beirette VSN camera. I had to extend my arm, focus the range to >2ft, adjust shutter speed to 120, hold still and click. Voila! I had almost forgotten the pleasure of using a film camera for the last six years. The pictures emerged to be of very good quality. I think, I will again use it in my next trip. My uncle gave me this camera in my childhood.
old camera: Beirette vsn