Ganga Gangotri Gaumukh Trip

I just came back from Gangotri Gomukh (also called as Gaumukh, Cow's Head) about 10 days ago. The last time I went there was 10 years ago, in 2003. Many things have changed in this interval. In fact the climate of the whole world has changed. Pollution has increased and so has heat. It was very hot in Haridwar, 33°C = 91.4 °F in Uttarkashi, even Gangotri felt warmer than before. Gangotri is supposed to be ice-clad most of the time!

Dawn at Gangotri, June 2012

In 2003 April-May, when I went to Gaumukh, the view was spectacular. I went very close to the Glacier, within 50 feet. Numerous 10-15 feet wide pillars of solid ice hung 80-120 feet from the Glacier. And from the gaps and holes(between the pillars), river Ganga was dripping out. I felt it to be one of the holiest places on earth. I could relate to those giant pillars in Gomukh as the matted locks "Jata-Kalapa" of Devon ke Deva (God of gods), Mahadeva, Shiva, (source of all bliss and knowledge in my life)... and river Ganga flowing out of them! The whole surface of river Ganga was frozen solid, from bank to bank. A 4 inch thick sheet of very strong ice was there. Below it, the holiest river, the nectar-like Ganga was flowing in it's most pristine state!

 Now in 2012, the glacier has receded, melted away about 500 feet to the back. The size is much smaller (1/3 of 2003). Also, Gaumukh used to be milk white, made of pure rock solid ice. Now, in July 2012, its covered in a dark brown dust, which under the harsh sun is melting away very fast.

Gaumukh in 2012, outlined in blue

The melting ice has caused the increase in the overall span of river Ganga. It much wider right at Gaumukh, so I had to cross hillock after hillock of huge boulders, to go near the actual Glacier. In 2003, there was a clear way along the bank of the river. Now the huge river has swallowed the path. If global warming bring about this kind of change is such a short time, many things will be soon disrupted all over the globe. Also, the last time there was a 2 inches thick sheet of ice all over Ganges, from bank to bank, next to Gaumukh; and Ganga was flowing below that ice layer. Now its naked muddy water.

Neeldhara overflowing at Haridwar

The fast flowing water is so much in quantity that even in Haridwar, Ganga has widened amazingly. In 2004, I crossed the Har-Ki-Pauri bridge and just walked towards Chandi Pahar (mountain). On the foot of it, was a slim part of the original Ganga, called Neeldhara. Original in the sense, that, it existed before the British constructed Har-ki-Pauri ghat around 140 years ago.

Neeldhara, Haridwar Ganga

Back to the point, I could walk on foot up-to Neeldhara in 2004. Now the Ganga has totally drowned the land in between, and I had to cross a far away bridge to arrive at the other bank of Neeldhara. The global warming phenomenon is no longer a popular talk show, its real.

Monolithic mountains near the canteen spot midway

One thing a traveler should do as soon as he gets to Gangotri is to get a Permit. The permit office is up-hill near the bus-depot. You need an ID for that and it will cost you 150 rupees (for Indian citizens) Or, 600 rupees ( for foreigners). The place where they will stop you and ask for the permit is just opposite to Phalahari Baba's Ashram.

My permit counterpart

Better get a permit beforehand, than being sorry afterwards!

Ten years ago, the number of bhoj trees, also known as Himalayan birch, Bhurja-Patra, or, Betula utilis were not so plentiful along the route, as I found it to be now. The Forest Department and other activists have tried to save this rare  plant from extinction under an afforestation program.

Landslides have killed some Bhoj-trees

 But due to frequent landslides, many Bhoj-trees have died, especially just next to Bhojbasa, and in certain mountain slopes. Sadly, last time heaps of Tej-patra ( Cinnamomum tamala )used to lie on the path from Chirbasa onwards; but now, there is no trace of them. What happened to those fragrant plants?

baby pine cones

As I was trekking, I noticed many exquisite herbs, growing on either side of the trail. They are mostly medicinal herbs with a strong aroma. Sadhus add them to their tea to combat the cold and fatigue.Ganga-tulsi, Daman-patra, etc. grow in abundance over there.

Medicinal Herbs in Bhojbasa

The play of delightful colors you get to see in the wild roses and other unknown flowers, is enough to beguile any romantic traveler's mind. Red, pink, purple, blue, yellow, white, dark-violet, flowers come in a wide variety of colors.

One good thing is that the people of Gangotri are still very honest and simple. Even now, I kept my bag in their care and went away to trek. After some days, when I took it back, everything was intact. These kind simple people are so hard to find in the plains.

   In Gangotri to Bhojbasa route, many small tents and Chotis that used to serve food has now disappeared. There is now only one food stall where you cross the river stream. Finally, when you get to Bhojbasa and may have some refreshments. Now, Lodgings: apart from Lalbaba's Ashram, you have another Yogashram, one Tourist Lodge; and a nice Sadhu named Nirmalbaba, who provides food & shelter in his tiny cottage/Tent free of cost and also sings Bhajans (laughs).

Dawn at Bhojbasa

    Sadhu Nirmalbaba was very kind and nice to me. He leaves his ashram in the morning around 6am, and does Tapasya in Gaumukh until he returns at Bhojbasa at 6pm in the evening. His behavior is also very friendly. He gave me short cut directions to climb near the Gomukh glacier.

Sadhu Nirmal Baba

In 2003, as I was meditating near the springs, a little distance from the Trekking path, groups of grey colored deers were grazing. They were so fearless, that they came within seven feet from me. Now, in 2012, I found no trace of those deers; not even the large white goats with long horns this time. Among wild animals, I just saw big mountain rats, some rare song-birds and many huge lizards. And that rounds up my wild-life experience for 2012, in Gangotri National Park!! Huff!

Mud hills en-route Bhojbasa

This time I noticed that many landslides have occurred. I photographed some huge Mud-Hills, packed with rocks & boulders, just above the path, ready to slide after a heavy rain.

I just found two great sadhus, (1) Sri Ram Swarup Brahmachari (Mangalbasa) and (2) Sri Nirmal Baba (Bhojbasa). That's a nice consolation.

Me as a Pilgrim

I took my own photograph with a manual film camera, without any auto-shutter release. I used Kodak film and an old Beirette VSN camera. I had to extend my arm, focus the range to >2ft, adjust shutter speed to 120, hold still and click. Voila! I had almost forgotten the pleasure of using a film camera for the last six years. The pictures emerged to be of very good quality. I think, I will again use it in my next trip. My uncle gave me this camera in my childhood.

old camera: Beirette vsn